Cancun, Mexico - Yucatan Peninsula - Beyond the Zona Hotelera

We decided to celebrate my birthday this year in Cancun, Mexico. I tried hard to get an airbnb but none of the ones available were suitable for us. Finally we settled on a resort hotel (not my favorite but still). We got a great flight deal and so we just bought tickets at the spur of the moment. (Tip: Try to find good deals on SouthWest airlines. You can take 2 checked in bags, plus no change fee!!!)

Cancun-Marriott

Cancun is in the Yucatan Peninsula (map) of Mexico and is surrounded by the beautiful Caribbean sea. Tropical weather year round, azure waters, mouthwatering seafood, fresh water Cenotes, heartwarming people... that describe this place.

Caribbean view

I never get all inclusive packages for hotels. I think it does not let you experience the true culture, the people and especially the food in that place. Anyone who knows me can tell I love eating. I love all kinds of food and will experiment - unless you ask me to eat alligator meat. I cannot fathom the idea of eating alligator. Nope!! Not happening!!

Okay before I digress, we stayed at JW Marriott in Zona Hotelera.

View from hotel room

It was a very good hotel with exceptional views of the Caribbean ocean. As soon as we entered the lobby, the wondrous blue waves met my eyes and immediately I was in love. It is something about the blue ocean that drives me toward it and exhilarates me. 

Fish tacos in Mercado 28

However, we were extremely hungry, so as soon as we checked in, we dropped our bags and headed to the local market in town called Mercado 28 (map). It is about 20 min drive from the hotel zone depending on where you are staying. Carry cash because most of these places accept cash. (Tip: check with your hotels if they do currency exchange. That way you don't have to carry a lot of cash.)


It is the liveliest place you will ever go to in Cancun - even better than the night clubs. There are innumerable stalls with vendors selling their merchandize. There is a lot to buy here from hand crafted bags, hats, bikinis, cover-ups to silver jewelry, decorated skulls, and of course... FOOD!!

Mercado 28

People will surround you with their menus offering you all kinds of deals such as gratis (free) margarita. From everywhere you will hear them calling out, they have the best tequila, tacos and what not. The hustle and bustle of the market, however, does not interfere with laid back approach inside the restaurants. You are sitting in the liveliest place in the entire market with little kids trying to sell small items such as bracelets, rings, pins, etc.

There are local singers and musicians who play music for you. And if you look at them, then they will come to your table and play some song and music for you. They are there to make a living, so don't shy from giving them some pesos. Even a small amount is very well appreciated.

Shopping at Mercado 28

However, when you shop there, they know you are tourists, so they will mark up the prices. Try to check in multiple stores. You can indulge in some friendly banter over the prices, but do not go overboard.

I bought a lot of memorabilia from there especially the hand designed purses and hand painted wooden bowls. We headed back to our hotel with full stomachs and delightful memories.

Hotel beach

On the beach

Evening was pretty much spent lazing around on the beach watching the waves crash on the shore, enjoying some drinks on the beach (non alcoholic since I am a teetotaler) You could see blue as far as your eyes could take you. The sand was sparkly white and as the sun made my skin warm, the soft sand kept me cool.

El-Castillo Chichèn Itza

Next day, we wanted to visit Chitchen Itza which is located in Yucatan, Mexico. We drove ourselves over there. It is about two and half hours drive from the Hotel Zone. There are a lot of bus tours that will pick you from your hotels and drive you to the Pyramids, and neighboring Cenotes. But it does not give you the freedom of spending as long or short time you want at any place. So I believe, driving is a better option. Chichen Itza is considered as one of the new wonders of the world. It is an archaeological ruins site built by the Maya people and is on UNESCO's world heritage list. Almost all blogs will tell you that!! However, there are some new regulations that you have to consider before you visit. Since recently you are not allowed to climb the famous steep steps of the El Castillo temple.

The crowds at Chichèn Itza

It is partly to protect the stone steps from human influx causing damage to the historical site. But most importantly, it was due to a fatal accident that occurred a few years ago resulting from a fall from the steps. For that matter, most of the sites are also inaccessible. So for me, it was actually quite disappointing to see it just from the outside. There are guides you can hire, but they charge an exorbitant amount. And for something that you won't even be actually experiencing; I was not willing to shell out any money.

I understand why they have stopped people from visiting the top, but I was looking forward to getting some good hike to the top and actually experiencing the view. Don't get me wrong, however, you could still visit it. It is marvelous architecture and it does blow your mind away to see how massive it is. It is intriguing to know, that there is a secret sacred Cenote (fresh water sinkholes that are abundant in Yucatan peninsula) right underneath where you are standing, on which this pyramid was built. But that's about it.

Street vendors at Chichèn Itza

On your way there again there a lot of vendors trying to sell you some more souvenirs that you may want to buy. T-shirts here are just about 20 pesos, so get some for you and your friends. The Cenote Sagrada is in the same area and you could visit it too. Again, its not open to the public and mostly the water has become very unclean and is not maintained properly.

(Tip: Be wary of tourists scams. Those are common as well.) Overall, I would rate the experience was good, but not mind-blowing. I guess the reality did not meet up to my expectations.

Cenote Ik-kil

Now let me tell you something about the Cenotes. As I mentioned earlier, they are fresh water sinkholes which are widespread in the Yucatan peninsula. They were considered sacred sites by the Mayan civilization and there are many stories associated with them. We decided to visit them after going to Chichen Itza. The cenote that's the closest to The Mayan pyramids goes by the name Ik-Kil. It has a depth of 150 feet and you have to carefully climb down a large number of stairs to reach the cenote. Once you are there, there are multiple ladders to enter the water and if you feel very courageous, you can even dive from a height. It is an experience that you should not miss. Good thing about it is, there are multiple ropes going across and also large float balls. 

Swimming in cenote Ik-Kil

So even if it can be a little scary to jump into a 150 feet deep sinkhole with no light, you can be safe. There are also places outside the cenote where you can rent life jackets. I was not particularly feeling very brave to get in there, but then I decided, heck I am going to do it at least once and that's it. Ended up jumping at least 5-6 times!!! The cold water sent shivers down my spine, but it was exhilarating at the same time. Do visit it for sure. (Tip: Take some change of clothes, towels etc as those are not provided anywhere. Please use biodegradable sunscreen and mosquito repellent). There are multiple cenotes everywhere you drive, so it's pretty much up to you where do you want to go. 

Cenote Samula

We also visited the cenote Xkeken and cenote Samula. They both are gorgeous. The water in cenote Samula is extremely clear and the sun shining through the hole in the top, gives the water a brilliant shade of blue. If you have seen the movie Coco, you will know what I mean. The cenotes are of varying depth. Most of the times, your feet can't touch the ground. Get fresh in these cenotes after a hot, tiring day at Chichen Itza. (Tip: You can snorkel here, but it needs to have a flashlight on it, as it can be quite dark underneath. )

Steps to cenote Xkeken

Cenote Xkeken is much more darker since there are smaller openings in the rock to let the sunlight in and also there is a lot of calcium deposit creating stalactites and stalagmites. (Tip: Just a pointer, on our way between Ik Kil and Samula, we could not find any decent restaurants, except one. So you may want to carry some snacks with you).

Cenote Xkeken

Playa Del Carmen

Plan on staying one day in Playa Del Carmen, so you can visit the surrounding areas such as Akumal Bay and Tulum and Cozumel. If you have time, go to Tulum for sure. I have read about their gorgeous beaches, cliffs and marine life. We will be visiting Tulum soon!!! Akumal Bay and Tulum could be a separate trip all together.

Snorkeling at Akumal Bay

Akumal Bay is a boho beach town with cheery colorful villas. There is a road here that leads you to the Akumal bay beach where you will find some rare species of turtles such as the Loggerhead turtles and the green turtles. Once again be careful of some people trying to make some money off of you. They are not necessarily lying to you, but they are not telling you the entire truth. They may ask you to pay fees for entering the sea. That's right, there are designated areas that will need you to be with a guide. But the truth is, if you walk a small distance south along the beach, there is an entire area which is free to use for public. (Tip: You do NOT have to spend a dime for entering the water.) 

Turtle at Akumal Bay

Some more turtles

Take your gear and go snorkel. We spotted about 3-5 turtles swimming effortlessly in the water. Do not go too close to them or do not stand on the corals. It is a fragile ecosystem and we have already done enough damage, we don't need to do it anymore. Wear biodegradable sunscreen and mosquito repellent. I cannot stress it enough. 

I would also recommend you to visit the Yal-Ku Lagoon. It should be on your must-do list. It is about 1.5 km from Akumal bay, so you can visit both places in one day. Snorkel here to see some exquisite species of fishes. The water is clear, warm and is protected from the sea currents. We saw thousands of fish here. I even got carried away following an aquamarine blue fish called Blue Tang of 'Finding Dory' fame. However, Yal-Ku lagoon can be a little crowded. But there are multiple dive sites and so you can select a quiet area to enter the water and then gradually start exploring. You can easily spend a few hours over here or even an entire day. 

Playa Del Carmen

We stayed in Playa Del Carmen (PDC) for only one night. Playa Del Carmen is a very lively town, but also quite touristy. I thought it would be a laid back town, but there are malls with all the luxury brands and that's no fun. Who wants to go into a Burberry store in Mexico!!! There are a lot of roadside food shacks that you surely need to visit. And of course, you have to try their shrimp ceviche. You will not be disappointed. The succulent shrimp with freshly squeezed lime and habanero sauce is a delight for your senses. (Tip: Mercado 28 has better prices for local merchandize than PDC)

Hotel resort at PDC 

Sunset at PDC

While in Cancun we also did some water sports. The temperature of the water is perfect. (Tip: It is also quite cheap compared to a lot of places back home.) I did the fly-boarding which was quite an electrifying experience. Took me a while to get a hang of how to do it, but it was fun. The 'Aquaworld' in Cancun has all water activities and sometimes, the hotels where you stay may offer some deals for the water activities. 

Flyboarding at Aquaworld

I wish we could stay longer than just a week in Mexico.I would definitely love to go back. I loved the culture, food, music, liveliness and most importantly, the people. Their gracious and welcoming hospitality made the trip much more memorable. If anyone asked me, what is the best thing about Mexico, I would, without any hesitation say the people and their generosity. It is the best thing about Mexico!!!

Positano & Amalfi coast (Italy)

Amalfi coast

2017 was a year of travel but I don't know how and when I decided to take a trip to Italy. We visited Indonesia, India and Italy and a whole lot more back home in the United States. However, what stuck with me through these travels was the amazing town of Positano in southern Italy. After spending about six days exploring Venice and then Rome, we decided the last leg of our trip was going to be a relaxing one. Positano... is a picturesque fishing village a few hours from Naples. It is not just a beautiful place but a town filled with wonderful people.          

Positano

There are three towns stacked on top of each other. Starts with Positano at the base, then Montepertuso in the middle and then Nocelle at the head Our arrival in Montepertuso is a big story in itself. After about an hour-long train ride from Rome, we reached Naples, where we are supposed to take the ferry to Sorrento. The ferry schedules can be a bit sketchy, so if you have some time on your hand, eat the original pizza in its birthplace - Naples; and of course, some coffee. Not that I needed any coffee, because of the beauty of the town kept me awake so my eyes could gorge on every detail of the place; but a new addiction was born in Italy; coffee - anytime, anywhere. Exquisite coffee, which I have never tasted in United States. Coming back to the ferry,  you have to pay for the luggage separately and they will provide you with stickers for the bags. (Tip: Make sure you are vigilant about the number of tickets and stickers you get.)

As we boarded the ferry, the person who was handling our bags, said we just had one tag for the bag and we would have to pay one euro for the other bag. That is when we realized we were tricked though we had paid for all the luggage when buying the tickets. There was no point arguing with him, as it was clearly indicated that he was in a rush and did not understand English. After about an hour of ferry ride, we reached the town of Sorrento. From the ferry itself, the town greets you with its picture perfect colorful buildings heaped on each other. As soon as we got down, was felt this gorgeous looking town with fresh salty air. From thereon I knew, this was going to be the best part of my vacation.             

You can either decide to walk to the car rental place or take a cab, which by the way could be expensive or if you have a ride, then you don't need to worry. We decided to walk as we just had carry-on bags and also wanted to check out the town before heading to our destination. Only if I knew, we would have to climb hundred plus steps to get to our car rental office.          

Road to Montepertuso

Another important point is, the cars here are stick shift, which I am not used to, so my husband drove it. It was a scary ride. He drove safely, mind you, but the narrow serpentine roads with a rocky mountain on one side and the ocean on the other side is not for the weak of the heart. There was not enough room for one car and it was a two-way road!!! Can you believe it???  With cars coming from other direction, we would have to stop, back up and let them pass or vice versa. That was scary and hilarious at the same time. We reached Montepertuso in about half hour with almost my heart in my mouth. 

Welcome bruscetta

Viw

Our pleasant hosts greeted us in Montepertuso and we walked about another fifty steps. Though this time they were carrying our bags which was really awkward for us, but they insisted. The villa stood atop a cliff. We love staying in bed and breakfasts. I believe it gives me a sneak peek into local life and not being just another tourist. I was a bit hesitant since it was located about fifteen minutes of bus ride from the main center of Positano. It turned out to be a great decision. As we settled in the couch overlooking the window, we started admiring the mountains meeting the vast ocean right in front of our eyes, while we sip our coffee. 

Positano Beach

The city center is about fifteen min bus ride from Montepertuso and the buses come every hour or so. Again, they run on a schedule but may be earlier or delayed sometimes. There are steps too to the town, as until a few years ago, that was the only way you could go the town; or so was I told. Once you reach down to Positano, there are small alleyways leading to different boutiques, stores, restaurants, gelaterias. Do check out the ceramics shops in Positano. They are gorgeous with intricate detailing and almost every article has lemons designed on them.  

In the evening

Go get yourself an entire dinner set or some articles as souvenirs from these local boutiques. (Tip: Keep an eye on where all merchandize is made.) Some stores sell items made in China, India, etc. If you are in Italy, I would recommend buying authentic. There are many stores that sell the famous limoncello. It is an original liquor from Sorrento peninsula. Try some for yourself or take home as gifts for friends. Some stores also have small 2-3 oz. bottles in the shape of maps of Italy - the shoe, Positano, lemons etc. They have other articles also such as lemon soaps, candles, bags and what not.

Walk around the town where you will smell the fragrant lemon scent wafting through the air, local artists presenting their artwork, selling jewelry, paintings, postcards. Don't spend time in just one place or don't eat in just one restaurant. Go explore different restaurants. The seafood here is delicious. We tried a lot of different seafood in various restaurants. Each place had great views of the coast and the town. The food was fresh, delectable, tasty and presented on the ceramic dishes made locally. That is what actually drove us to buying the dinnerware at a local boutique. The bright colors... the cheerful designs... I wish I had carried bigger bags.

Delicious seafood

Also, you cannot just go to Positano and not try the lemon gelato. Our taste buds went into a sudden delicious frenzy!!! The chocolate one is also another good one.

Tasty dessert

On our first evening we decided to walk on the beach. There were some people in the water, but we decided not to go in the water but just relax on the beach since it had rained just an hour before. We stepped into an elegant restaurant called the Covo Bar at Covo de Saraceni. With its alluring white washed walls adorned with natural lush green vines, it sure is pleasing to the senses. Enjoy drinks, apertivo while people watching and enjoying the slow peaceful pace of this dreamy town.

We started our second morning with a hearty, heavenly breakfast consisting of garden fresh heirloom tomatoes, caprese salad, fresh juice, toasts, nutella crepes, fruits, coffee...the list is unending. We could probably take a nap after our breakfast, we were so full.

Breakfast in garden

We spent our second day in Capri till the afternoon as we wanted to see the blue grotto. Unfortunately, the grotto was closed due to high tide. So, we took a two hour boat ride around Capri. (Tip: Book the tickets at any of the innumerable counters present on the port. You can also haggle the price with them.) Usually, closer to the boat timing, if there are not many passengers they will reduce the price. 

Emerald Grotto

During the boat ride, they show you some famous celebrity homes, the arch of love and also the emerald grotto. They do show you the blue grotto from outside. However, you cannot really tell because it looks like a small opening and you cannot see beyond it. It was a good ride overall. The tour guide was extremely funny and he made the ride quite enjoyable. 

Arch of Love

You can get some truly great pictures of the arch from the boat. 
The emerald grotto is beautiful and you can also swim in there (not with the boat ride). You may want to spend an entire day or two days in Capri to truly experience it. For me, it felt like an overcrowded touristy town with expensive restaurants. I have seen many such beach towns in United States and it overall did not interest me. But I will not judge the book, by just its cover. I have heard good things about Capri and Anacapri by people who have visited them. I guess it did not suit my interests. 

However, I felt Positano had the old-world charm to it and most importantly it was not as crowded.

After coming back from Capri, we decided to drive along the Amalfi coast - a thrilling experience indeed. With rugged rocks on one side and plunging cliffs on the other, it was a site to behold. Be careful; as tourist buses may tend to be a little rough and you will have to be attentive. Take numerous pit stops, as you will find small hidden beaches with stunning views. Also, along the way you may want to visit some other towns along the Amalfi coast such as Ravello, Praiano and of course Amalfi. Looking at the picturesque scenery, you know why it is on UNESCO's world heritage site list. 

Anyone who is visiting Positano or any of the neighboring towns should definitely drive along the Amalfi coast. 

Our third and the last day in Positano was spent doing a moderately difficult but enchantingly beautiful hike called "Sentiero degli dei" or "Path of Gods". We started our day with a heavy breakfast provided by our hosts using ingredients from the garden growing in front of the villa. Since the villa was very close to the trailhead we must have cut down our hike time to half. 

I have read that it takes about three hours to do the entire hike. Normally, the hike starts in Agerola or Praiano. But for us, we started right at the steps in Montepertuso. It is a vertiginous hike. Offers extraordinarily beautiful views of Amalfi coast, Capri and Anacapri in the distance. Along the path, you will see many terraced farms, uneven trails and lush greenery. Once you reach the top you will see the "Hole in the Rock" which in Italian means "Montepertuso". Our host told us there are only three such rocks in the whole world. 

Heading down from the hike, we were extremely hungry. We visited La Tagliata fattoria which is a family owned restaurant in Nocelle overlooking the Mediterranean coastline. This restaurant is unique, as it serves food using just the ingredients grown in their farms. We also visited their farm and vineyard below the restaurant. (Tip: Most importantly they do not have a menu that is presented to you.)

I was quite skeptical about it at first. But I decided to jump in. 





The food started coming in and after about four dishes, I thought we were done and were ready for desserts; our server came in to ask us if we were ready for our second course. We had the best pumpkin ravioli, followed by third course of meat. Our delicious lunch ended with an even more delicious dessert accompanied by limoncello.

That evening we headed back to Rome and next day took the flight back to California. But I was ready for another visit to Positano. Hopefully soon!!!