Vatican in 2 days! What to see, what to wear and money saving tips!!

Set dramatically across from the mighty Tiber River, is a country that is mightier, more beautiful and more historic than history - The Vatican.
Vatican City is a country in Europe and it is the smallest country in the world. It may be small for a country but has enormous history behind it.
It is also the house of the Pope and is a headquarters of the Catholic Church around the world.
A believer or not, no trip to Italy can be complete without visiting The Vatican!!

However, visiting the Vatican City can be a daunting experience if you are not used to walking for hours, or you are not familiar with its ancient past. We walked 25-30,000 steps almost every day while we were in Italy. Vatican was going to be no different. 

Number of steps walked in 1 day in Vatican

In addition to that, I did not have much idea about its history. So, I was a little skeptical when I decided to add Vatican to my Italian itinerary. I am not a person who likes to visit museums and art galleries  as I believe the true culture of the place is reflected in the living-breathing people surrounding you, and not in the artifacts laying in the museums for years.



However, Italy and Vatican are rich in art history. So I would be missing out on the essence of the place, if I did not visit the museums and the architecture. Art is the has a great influence on the Vatican culture and Italian culture. Hence, it was imperative to visit these places.

So, I had to come up with a plan wherein I would be able to enjoy the experience and also learn something about this place. I was definitely not taking the guided tour, because I need to explore a place on my own time.

Well… Rick Steves comes to the rescue. He is an American travel writer who writes about European travel from the eyes of a local. Additionally, he has a mobile application called Rick Steves Europe. It is a life saver. It gives you information in detail regarding any place you want to visit in Europe and it is free to download. He gives detailed step by step and interesting information regarding all that is on display in the museums in the Vatican, specially without being boring. He makes it engaging with conversations with another person, some jokes while giving information among other things. All you need to do is download the app, plug your earphones and get going. You can also get paid audio-guide tour, but this one is free, so save some Euros there, would you?

As far as commuting in Rome is concerned, you can use the commuter buses, or you can buy the Hop-on Hop off buses. I personally love walking in new cities as much as I can because there are a lot of sites you can miss when you are in the bus.
However, be careful about using the public transportation, there can be a lot of petty thieves hanging out in the buses. Considering it is Italy, they are always well dressed and may be hard to tell. (Tip: It is better to use an ‘under the dress wallet’ for valuable items and for ladies. If you are carrying purses keep them in simple sling bags and definitely no backpacks.)

Another important point to consider is your outfits you will be wearing. In the basilica, it is expected that you dress modestly with dresses covering your knees and shoulders covered also. Also, it rains at random times and so you may want to carry a poncho or umbrella. 

Queue outside St Peter's

I would recommend you to start your day by visiting St. Peter's Basilica or Basilica di San Pietro. Late mornings, afternoons and evening there are lines everywhere and you could spend anywhere between 1-3 hours standing in the line. 

When you make your plans for visiting the Basilica, make sure you check the hours. Most importantly, it is closed on Sundays except last Sunday of every month when it is open until noon. You don't want to lose your precious travel time especially if you are going to be visiting only for a few days. 

The Basilica opens at 7:00 am but the dome opens a little later. One guard told us, it opens at 7:15, at 7:15 someone told us it would open at 7:30 am. Finally, they started letting people in at 7:45 am. There is no fixed timing when it actually opens. If you reach too early there are some cafes that open as early as 6:00 am and you can enjoy some delicious coffee and pastries there before starting your day. 

St Peter's square at mid-day

Do not go to inside the basilica first as the 
line to the dome gets longer later on. We reached there at 6: 45 am and there were already a few people ahead of us. Most people go into the basilica first. 

Facade of St Peter's basilica

St Peter's basilica 

The path becomes curved as you reach near the dome

We started toward the dome first. There is also an elevator that goes halfway up toward the dome. It costs about 7 Euros for the elevator which goes half way and then the stairs and 5 Euros for the stairs only option. I would recommend taking the elevators as it saves some time. 

View of the cupola during the climb up the dome

It a vertiginous climb upstairs with round stairs, and they tilt at angles once you reach closer to the dome. That might make you dizzy, so take breaks.
Also, take a look at the cupola from the inside on your way up.

       


Also, the path becomes narrower and narrower which at one point lets only one person through the path.

However, once you reach the top, the cool breeze of Vatican hits your face and you are rewarded with resplendent views of the Vatican and Rome. You can even see the Vatican gardens at a distance. On one side you can see the Piazza di San Pietro or St. Peter's square. 

View of St. peter's square from the dome

 

No superlatives could do justice to the magnificence of Piazza di San Pietro. Go here to watch the sun rising over the city. 

The Apostles placed right on top of the Basilica

Sun rising over the St Peter's square-taken before the climb to the dome

After you are done assimilating the beautiful view from above the dome, head downstairs to the Basilica itself. At the entrance, you can look at the sunlight cast on the obelisk in the plaza giving it a surreal appearance.

The Basilica is the site of St Peter's burial. Saint Peter was considered the greatest of the twelve apostles of Jesus Christ.  If you were stunned by the sheer vastness of the Basilica from the outside, be prepared to be even more captivated by the magnificence on the inside. 

St Peter's basilica on the inside

As you enter, you will immediately see the world famous Michelangelo’s Pietà created in the 14th century. It was created by him at the age of fourteen. 

Michelangelo's Pieta

This Basilica is filled with a lot of Renaissance and you will be amazed that without the modern advancement, how they created such a masterpiece. It is a sight to behold to watch the work of Bernini, Michelangelo and Bramante - all extremely notable renaissance artists. 

Bernini's bronze Baldachin

St Peter's statue-note the right foot has become smooth due to pilgrims touching and kissing that foot

There are a lot of other artists that have contributed to the design of this enormously beautiful building. There is a vast history which cannot be surmised in a few words. The structure is so huge that the Statue of Liberty is said would fit easily inside it even with the pedestal and her torch. It runs the length of two American football fields. 

Bernini's Baldachin 

 
You can also visit the Necropolis here. The Necropolis is the burial site of St Peter below the basilica (Tip: If you wish to visit the Necropolis, you need to make advance booking months before your visit, so plan accordingly. You have to make reservations with the excavations office by emailing at this address with the number of people intending to attend and also the dates:  scavi@fsp.va.)

The reservations can be hard to get, so plan ahead of time.

View of the cupola from inside the Basilica

The Vatican grottoes are the burial sites of other popes and can also be visited. Again, you can visit the grottoes when it is open to the public. When we visited, it was closed to the public and hence we were not able to see it.

The grottoes can take a few hours to visit. Plan the rest of the day accordingly. It is better to visit the Basilica on one day and the Vatican museums and Vatican gardens on another day. As I mentioned earlier you can easily walk around 30,000 steps in a day and it could be really exhausting if you try to cover everything in one day.

Outside the Basilica, you see the famous Swiss guards. Their uniforms are very interesting and makes me wonder if they would be able to run in those...!!! ;) These were designed by Michelangelo back in the days. 

The Swiss guard

Also, check out the Piazza in the evening. It looks surreal under teh dark blue sky!! After an exhausting day, enjoy a nice Italian meal before heading to the hotel. Make sure to get enough sleep as you will be spending an entire day again next morning to visit the rest of Vatican.

Piazza in the evening

Next day we decided to head to the museums. A point to note - museums are closed on Sundays except last Sunday of every month. The last Sunday of every month the entry is free. However, that means there will be a lot of rush and longer wait times. I would rather spend the 17 Euros and go on a weekday. Check the website
http://www.museivaticani.va/content/museivaticani/en/info/tutti-gli-orari.html for hours, fees and closures for the year.

The famous spiral stairs in the Vatican Museum

When I am on vacation, I have no problems getting up at the break of dawn. When I am home, I can't get up even after 10 hours of sleep. Since the museums open at 9 am, you can use the earlier free time, to visit the Tiber river and adore the Basilica in the morning sky. You can go for a jog through the city and experience the buzz of the local life before tourists take over the streets. 

I would recommend reaching the museum a little earlier than the opening hour since the wait times may be longer especially during the months of July through September when the schools are on summer break. At the same time, be wary of certain tour agents roaming on the streets telling you there are long lines and that you can pass those lines by buying their front of line passes. We met a lot of people on the streets who would follow us all the way for a few blocks trying to sell us the front of line passes. 

Even though the lines may be longer, they go fast and once you are on the inside you can be on your own. This time too, I did not go for a tour guide since I wanted to explore it at my own pace. I used Rick Steves' application again to visit and learn about all the artifacts in the museum.

The hallway between the Musuems

Sculptures in the museum were made during Medieval times

Another statue in the Museum

Pinacoteca

The Pinacoteca holds about 460 paintings from the Medieval periodI spent around 3 hours in the museums. I've read, people spend longer times. In the beginning, I did not even think I would be spending that much time, however, the history of the place is so intriguing, you can't help but get absorbed and transported to the Renaissance period. 

The walk through the museum takes you through the famous paintings, sculptures and tapestries of various renowned artists from the Renaissance period such as Michelangelo, Botticelli, Raphael.

Raphael's painting-School of Athens

Apollo Belvedere statue

The famous Belvedere torso

The highlight of the visit is the Sistine Chapel. It has been recreated in a lot of movies, so I had seen it on screen. But, to see it in real life was a mesmerizing experience. Noteworthy and what draws a lot of attention is the Creation of Adam and the Judgement day painting. The intricate detailing of human forms reflects mastery of Michelangelo. You can spend 1 hour just in the chapel while following the instructions and detailed explanation for each painting by Rick Steves. The officials were prohibiting tourists from taking pictures inside the chapel.  However, constantly looking up at the frescoed ceiling can be a real pain in the neck - quite literally. This makes the physical therapist in me wonder if Michelangelo and his artists had a lot of neck and upper back problems.

Anyway, moving from there, you can see some more tapestries, artifacts and finally make your way out of the museum and head to the Vatican gardens.

Resurrection of Christ in the Tapestry hall in Vatican Museum

The Vatican gardens seen from the Museum

Vatican gardens are worth visiting for their lush greenery and beautiful views of the St. Peter's basilica. However, you need to book a tour and you cannot enter the gardens without the tour. There is a bus tour also that you may want to consider if you have a time crunch. The bus tour is an audio tour and you cannot get off the bus during the tour. The layout of the gardens is beautiful and the walking tour lets you explore it better than the bus tour.

Pope's room-with the lit window

Also, when the Pope is in town you can be on the papal audience list which needs to be booked way in advance. He addresses the audience in the St Peter's square. However, that happens only when the Pope is in town. However, those days it can be really crowded. In case you decide to do it, get the advance tickets and be there hours before the actual opening to get a good seat.






If you are going to be visiting both Rome and Vatican - which I am assuming you would be, then try getting the Omnia pass. It gives you an option to visit a lot of attractions in Rome and Vatican with fast track entry. Also, it allows free entry in a few locations and of course the public commute is included. Overall, you can save a lot of money by using the Omnia card. 

Also, try to have your meals packed with you when going to the museum. The restaurants around the tourist area are expensive and provide mediocre food. Grab sandwiches from a local cafe instead.

I know, there is a lot to do and see in the Vatican. There are a lot of night tours, secret tours and what not. If you have the time, go for it. But, you can see all the important sites in two days.
One thing is for sure, once you are in the Vatican, you will be transported to another world, as I did!!!



Photo courtesy and copyrights: Adwait Paranjpe

Cancun, Mexico - Yucatan Peninsula - Beyond the Zona Hotelera

We decided to celebrate my birthday this year in Cancun, Mexico. I tried hard to get an airbnb but none of the ones available were suitable for us. Finally we settled on a resort hotel (not my favorite but still). We got a great flight deal and so we just bought tickets at the spur of the moment. (Tip: Try to find good deals on SouthWest airlines. You can take 2 checked in bags, plus no change fee!!!)

Cancun-Marriott

Cancun is in the Yucatan Peninsula (map) of Mexico and is surrounded by the beautiful Caribbean sea. Tropical weather year round, azure waters, mouthwatering seafood, fresh water Cenotes, heartwarming people... that describe this place.

Caribbean view

I never get all inclusive packages for hotels. I think it does not let you experience the true culture, the people and especially the food in that place. Anyone who knows me can tell I love eating. I love all kinds of food and will experiment - unless you ask me to eat alligator meat. I cannot fathom the idea of eating alligator. Nope!! Not happening!!

Okay before I digress, we stayed at JW Marriott in Zona Hotelera.

View from hotel room

It was a very good hotel with exceptional views of the Caribbean ocean. As soon as we entered the lobby, the wondrous blue waves met my eyes and immediately I was in love. It is something about the blue ocean that drives me toward it and exhilarates me. 

Fish tacos in Mercado 28

However, we were extremely hungry, so as soon as we checked in, we dropped our bags and headed to the local market in town called Mercado 28 (map). It is about 20 min drive from the hotel zone depending on where you are staying. Carry cash because most of these places accept cash. (Tip: check with your hotels if they do currency exchange. That way you don't have to carry a lot of cash.)


It is the liveliest place you will ever go to in Cancun - even better than the night clubs. There are innumerable stalls with vendors selling their merchandize. There is a lot to buy here from hand crafted bags, hats, bikinis, cover-ups to silver jewelry, decorated skulls, and of course... FOOD!!

Mercado 28

People will surround you with their menus offering you all kinds of deals such as gratis (free) margarita. From everywhere you will hear them calling out, they have the best tequila, tacos and what not. The hustle and bustle of the market, however, does not interfere with laid back approach inside the restaurants. You are sitting in the liveliest place in the entire market with little kids trying to sell small items such as bracelets, rings, pins, etc.

There are local singers and musicians who play music for you. And if you look at them, then they will come to your table and play some song and music for you. They are there to make a living, so don't shy from giving them some pesos. Even a small amount is very well appreciated.

Shopping at Mercado 28

However, when you shop there, they know you are tourists, so they will mark up the prices. Try to check in multiple stores. You can indulge in some friendly banter over the prices, but do not go overboard.

I bought a lot of memorabilia from there especially the hand designed purses and hand painted wooden bowls. We headed back to our hotel with full stomachs and delightful memories.

Hotel beach

On the beach

Evening was pretty much spent lazing around on the beach watching the waves crash on the shore, enjoying some drinks on the beach (non alcoholic since I am a teetotaler) You could see blue as far as your eyes could take you. The sand was sparkly white and as the sun made my skin warm, the soft sand kept me cool.

El-Castillo Chichèn Itza

Next day, we wanted to visit Chitchen Itza which is located in Yucatan, Mexico. We drove ourselves over there. It is about two and half hours drive from the Hotel Zone. There are a lot of bus tours that will pick you from your hotels and drive you to the Pyramids, and neighboring Cenotes. But it does not give you the freedom of spending as long or short time you want at any place. So I believe, driving is a better option. Chichen Itza is considered as one of the new wonders of the world. It is an archaeological ruins site built by the Maya people and is on UNESCO's world heritage list. Almost all blogs will tell you that!! However, there are some new regulations that you have to consider before you visit. Since recently you are not allowed to climb the famous steep steps of the El Castillo temple.

The crowds at Chichèn Itza

It is partly to protect the stone steps from human influx causing damage to the historical site. But most importantly, it was due to a fatal accident that occurred a few years ago resulting from a fall from the steps. For that matter, most of the sites are also inaccessible. So for me, it was actually quite disappointing to see it just from the outside. There are guides you can hire, but they charge an exorbitant amount. And for something that you won't even be actually experiencing; I was not willing to shell out any money.

I understand why they have stopped people from visiting the top, but I was looking forward to getting some good hike to the top and actually experiencing the view. Don't get me wrong, however, you could still visit it. It is marvelous architecture and it does blow your mind away to see how massive it is. It is intriguing to know, that there is a secret sacred Cenote (fresh water sinkholes that are abundant in Yucatan peninsula) right underneath where you are standing, on which this pyramid was built. But that's about it.

Street vendors at Chichèn Itza

On your way there again there a lot of vendors trying to sell you some more souvenirs that you may want to buy. T-shirts here are just about 20 pesos, so get some for you and your friends. The Cenote Sagrada is in the same area and you could visit it too. Again, its not open to the public and mostly the water has become very unclean and is not maintained properly.

(Tip: Be wary of tourists scams. Those are common as well.) Overall, I would rate the experience was good, but not mind-blowing. I guess the reality did not meet up to my expectations.

Cenote Ik-kil

Now let me tell you something about the Cenotes. As I mentioned earlier, they are fresh water sinkholes which are widespread in the Yucatan peninsula. They were considered sacred sites by the Mayan civilization and there are many stories associated with them. We decided to visit them after going to Chichen Itza. The cenote that's the closest to The Mayan pyramids goes by the name Ik-Kil. It has a depth of 150 feet and you have to carefully climb down a large number of stairs to reach the cenote. Once you are there, there are multiple ladders to enter the water and if you feel very courageous, you can even dive from a height. It is an experience that you should not miss. Good thing about it is, there are multiple ropes going across and also large float balls. 

Swimming in cenote Ik-Kil

So even if it can be a little scary to jump into a 150 feet deep sinkhole with no light, you can be safe. There are also places outside the cenote where you can rent life jackets. I was not particularly feeling very brave to get in there, but then I decided, heck I am going to do it at least once and that's it. Ended up jumping at least 5-6 times!!! The cold water sent shivers down my spine, but it was exhilarating at the same time. Do visit it for sure. (Tip: Take some change of clothes, towels etc as those are not provided anywhere. Please use biodegradable sunscreen and mosquito repellent). There are multiple cenotes everywhere you drive, so it's pretty much up to you where do you want to go. 

Cenote Samula

We also visited the cenote Xkeken and cenote Samula. They both are gorgeous. The water in cenote Samula is extremely clear and the sun shining through the hole in the top, gives the water a brilliant shade of blue. If you have seen the movie Coco, you will know what I mean. The cenotes are of varying depth. Most of the times, your feet can't touch the ground. Get fresh in these cenotes after a hot, tiring day at Chichen Itza. (Tip: You can snorkel here, but it needs to have a flashlight on it, as it can be quite dark underneath. )

Steps to cenote Xkeken

Cenote Xkeken is much more darker since there are smaller openings in the rock to let the sunlight in and also there is a lot of calcium deposit creating stalactites and stalagmites. (Tip: Just a pointer, on our way between Ik Kil and Samula, we could not find any decent restaurants, except one. So you may want to carry some snacks with you).

Cenote Xkeken

Playa Del Carmen

Plan on staying one day in Playa Del Carmen, so you can visit the surrounding areas such as Akumal Bay and Tulum and Cozumel. If you have time, go to Tulum for sure. I have read about their gorgeous beaches, cliffs and marine life. We will be visiting Tulum soon!!! Akumal Bay and Tulum could be a separate trip all together.

Snorkeling at Akumal Bay

Akumal Bay is a boho beach town with cheery colorful villas. There is a road here that leads you to the Akumal bay beach where you will find some rare species of turtles such as the Loggerhead turtles and the green turtles. Once again be careful of some people trying to make some money off of you. They are not necessarily lying to you, but they are not telling you the entire truth. They may ask you to pay fees for entering the sea. That's right, there are designated areas that will need you to be with a guide. But the truth is, if you walk a small distance south along the beach, there is an entire area which is free to use for public. (Tip: You do NOT have to spend a dime for entering the water.) 

Turtle at Akumal Bay

Some more turtles

Take your gear and go snorkel. We spotted about 3-5 turtles swimming effortlessly in the water. Do not go too close to them or do not stand on the corals. It is a fragile ecosystem and we have already done enough damage, we don't need to do it anymore. Wear biodegradable sunscreen and mosquito repellent. I cannot stress it enough. 

I would also recommend you to visit the Yal-Ku Lagoon. It should be on your must-do list. It is about 1.5 km from Akumal bay, so you can visit both places in one day. Snorkel here to see some exquisite species of fishes. The water is clear, warm and is protected from the sea currents. We saw thousands of fish here. I even got carried away following an aquamarine blue fish called Blue Tang of 'Finding Dory' fame. However, Yal-Ku lagoon can be a little crowded. But there are multiple dive sites and so you can select a quiet area to enter the water and then gradually start exploring. You can easily spend a few hours over here or even an entire day. 

Playa Del Carmen

We stayed in Playa Del Carmen (PDC) for only one night. Playa Del Carmen is a very lively town, but also quite touristy. I thought it would be a laid back town, but there are malls with all the luxury brands and that's no fun. Who wants to go into a Burberry store in Mexico!!! There are a lot of roadside food shacks that you surely need to visit. And of course, you have to try their shrimp ceviche. You will not be disappointed. The succulent shrimp with freshly squeezed lime and habanero sauce is a delight for your senses. (Tip: Mercado 28 has better prices for local merchandize than PDC)

Hotel resort at PDC 

Sunset at PDC

While in Cancun we also did some water sports. The temperature of the water is perfect. (Tip: It is also quite cheap compared to a lot of places back home.) I did the fly-boarding which was quite an electrifying experience. Took me a while to get a hang of how to do it, but it was fun. The 'Aquaworld' in Cancun has all water activities and sometimes, the hotels where you stay may offer some deals for the water activities. 

Flyboarding at Aquaworld

I wish we could stay longer than just a week in Mexico.I would definitely love to go back. I loved the culture, food, music, liveliness and most importantly, the people. Their gracious and welcoming hospitality made the trip much more memorable. If anyone asked me, what is the best thing about Mexico, I would, without any hesitation say the people and their generosity. It is the best thing about Mexico!!!